Colita de cuadril (tri-tip) on the grill: whole and unhurried

Colita de cuadril is one of those cuts people go back to once they've discovered it. It has a distinctive triangular shape, a thin fat cap on one side and a big flavour despite being lean.

Always whole

Don't cut it into steaks before cooking. Whole, it keeps its juices and lets you serve each slice at the doneness someone wants: the ends come out more cooked and the middle stays pink, so one piece suits everybody.

Cooking it

• Medium-low heat (your hand lasts 5 to 6 seconds), starting fat side down: 20 to 25 minutes.
• Turn it and give it another 15 to 20 minutes. Under the tongs it should feel firm but still give in the centre.
• Rest for 8 to 10 minutes. On a lean piece like this, skipping the rest shows immediately.

How you slice it matters

The grain in colita changes direction halfway along the piece. Cut thin slices and, when you reach the middle, turn the board so you carry on cutting against the grain. That's the difference between a tender slice and one that's hard work to chew.

Coarse salt and nothing else. At most, chimichurri on the side for whoever wants it.